The landings of the U.S. 36th Infantry Division took place along the beaches of Paestum, south of Salerno, in September 1943.
Texas to Rome WWII tour following the journey of General Fred L. Walker and the 36th Infantry Division across the Italian Campaign.
Some tours are about history.
Others become something much more.
In March 2026, I had the honor of guiding Fred L. Walker III — the grandson of General Fred L. Walker, commander of the U.S. 36th Infantry Division (Texas Division) during World War II — together with his son Shane Walker, the great-grandson of General Walker, from Paestum (Salerno) to Rome, retracing the route of the Italian Campaign across the very ground where the 36th Division fought.
This was not just a battlefield tour.
It was a journey through memory, family, and history written on the ground.
From Paestum (Salerno): Where the Story Began
A living memory of the Salerno landings and the presence of the “T-Patchers” in Paestum, 1943.
Honoring the soldiers of the Texas Division who fought in the Italian Campaign.
Fought over by the U.S. 36th Infantry Division during the advance inland, September 1943.
We began at Paestum, where the U.S. 36th Infantry Division, commanded by General Fred L. Walker, landed in September 1943.
Standing near the Sele River and the beaches of Paestum, we explored the critical early days of the campaign — a fragile foothold that would determine the future of the Allied advance in Italy.
For Fred Walker III, this was more than a historical location.
It was the place where his grandfather commanded men in one of the most difficult moments of the war.
At the Tobacco Factory of Cafasso, once General Walker’s headquarters, the past felt incredibly close. It was here that decisions were made under pressure, shaping the fate of thousands of soldiers of the 36th Division.
From the Mountains to the Rivers: San Pietro, the Rapido, and Beyond
Fought over by the U.S. 36th Infantry Division during the winter battles of December 1943.
One of the most difficult and costly operations of the Italian Campaign, January 1944.
From the beaches, we followed the advance of the 36th Infantry Division into the interior — where the nature of the war changed completely.
At San Pietro Infine, we stood among the ruins of one of the most iconic battlefields of the Italian Campaign, where the division fought in brutal winter conditions against well-prepared German defenses.
Along the Rapido River, we confronted one of the most tragic and controversial episodes in the history of the division. Here, under extremely difficult conditions, the men of the 36th were ordered to cross a heavily defended river line, suffering devastating losses.
These places are not just battlefield locations.
They are essential to understanding the cost of the Italian Campaign — and the weight of the decisions made by commanders like General Walker.
Walking the Battlefield Together
Guiding through the history of the Texas Division during the Rapido River operations, January 1944.
Travelling with Fred and Shane meant experiencing the battlefield in a completely different way.
This was not only a journey through the history of the 36th Infantry Division, but a personal return to the places where their family story unfolded during the war.
We followed the route of the division:
- from the landing beaches at Paestum
- through the difficult terrain of southern Italy
- toward the brutal battles that defined the Italian Campaign
Every stop became a connection between past and present.
The landscape was no longer just geography.
It became a bridge between generations.
A momento at Nettuno
A moment of silence and connection at the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery, Nettuno.
A symbolic gesture honoring the fallen of the Italian Campaign.
One of the most powerful moments of the tour took place at the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery at Nettuno.
Among more than 7,800 graves, two soldiers of the 36th Infantry Division were chosen at random.
For the Walker family, standing among the men who had served under General Walker, this moment carried a deep emotional meaning.
It was an unexpected and powerful reminder that history is never abstract.
It is made of names, lives, and individual stories that still resonate today.
Toward Rome: The Final Phase of the Campaign
The final phase of the Allied advance toward Rome, May–June 1944.
As the campaign moved north, we followed the later stages of the advance toward Rome.
At Monte Artemisio, overlooking the approaches to the capital, the landscape opens into a new phase of the war — the final push after months of fighting through mountains, rivers, and fortified positions.
Standing here, it becomes possible to understand the scale of the campaign and the long road that brought the 36th Division from the beaches of Paestum to the liberation of Rome.
Walking the Battlefield Together
Travelling with Fred and Shane meant experiencing the battlefield in a completely different way.
This was not only a journey through the history of the 36th Infantry Division, but a personal return to the places where their family story unfolded during the war.
Every location — from Paestum to San Pietro, from the Rapido River to the final approach to Rome — became part of a shared experience between past and present.
The landscape was no longer just geography.
It became a bridge between generations.
Walking History
This is what I believe a battlefield journey should be.
Not just information, but experience.
Not just history, but connection.
Walking the ground where events happened — especially together with the descendants of those who lived that history — transforms the way we understand the past.
The story of the 36th Infantry Division is not only written in books.
It is written on the landscape of Italy, and in the memory of families like the Walkers.
An Unforgettable and Transformative Experience
Guiding Fred Walker III and his son Shane across these battlefields was not simply a tour.
It was a deeply meaningful and educational experience — one that brought together history, family, and place in a way that is both rare and unforgettable.
Through this journey, I also came to understand General Fred L. Walker more deeply — not only as a commander of the 36th Infantry Division, but as a man.
A journey that goes beyond visiting sites, becoming instead a moment of understanding, reflection, and connection.
And it is in these moments, walking the ground together, that the past truly comes alive.
Moments Along the Journey
Between history and memory, the journey becomes human.
Near Chiunzi Pass, connected to Allied movements during the advance through southern Italy.
A place where history and present life exist side by side.
For those wishing to explore the Italian Campaign through a personal journey, I am always available to help.
Dr. Danila Bracaglia
📧 danila.bracaglia@gmail.com
📞 +39 338 2458831